Happy Spring! A Quilt Block a Day Tutorial

It's Spring! Not that you'd know it in Colorado -- low of 14F and 22F currently, with snow on the ground.

But, as Shelley wrote, "if Winter comes, can Spring be far behind?"

With the advent of Spring comes a new "Quilt Block a Day." Did you keep up with making 90 nine-patch blocks during Winter? I hope so, because you need them to make the Spring BaD!

We're going to convert our nine-patch blocks to Farmer's Daughter blocks. Yes, I'm a farmer's daughter. I grew up on a dairy farm. Maybe that's why I wake up at 4 am every day?

Here is the completed Farmer's Daughter block:

To make it, start with the nine-patch block, tutorial here.

I'm making my Farmer's Daughter quilt using scrappy reds and background tone-on-tone prints. Of course, you can make your's using other colors, or three colors. Or really, really scrappy, with each element a different fabric!

To make the block, first you'll need eight half-square triangles. For a 90-block quilt, that's 720 HSTs. Don't panic, we'll only need eight each day. Cut a stack of HSTs and use them as your Leaders and Enders while sewing other things.

1. Place a 2½" strip of colored fabric right sides together with a 2½" strip of background fabric.

2. Use the EZ-Angle ruler to cut HSTs across the two strips. Then sew on the diagonal seam and press toward the dark fabric. 

3. Lay out the eight HSTs, eight background squares, and the nine-patch block to form the Farmer's Daughter block:

4. Sew two HSTs and one background square together to form the short side of the FD block:

5. Press toward the center background square.   This segment will be sewn to the side of the nine-patch block where the background square seam is pressed toward the dark squares:

6. Although I rarely use pins, in this case, pins will ensure your vertical seams match. Stitch with the HSTs on top, so you can stitch right across the "X" of the seam on the HST:

7. Press toward the nine-patch block:

8. Next, sew three background squares alternating with two HSTs to form the long side of the block.

9. Press each seam toward the outside background square. "nestle" the seams and stitch:

10. Press this seam toward the nine-patch:

 11.  A final pressing, and there's your Farmer's Daughter block!
 

 One down, 89 to go!


From the desk of your

Finally Friday: A Video Tutorial Review

I was lucky enough to be asked to write a review of a new online video course from iquilt, in exchange for free access to the course. Although I received the course for free, all opinions are my own.

The course is "Solids Revolution" with Weeks Ringle. First, a photo of the finished project!

(Modern Quilt Studio copyright 2016)

Here is my review:

Whether your quilting style is traditional, modern – or modern-traditional – Weeks Ringle has great tips and tricks for you in “Solids Revolution." This video is hosted on iquilt.com, a new instructional platform sponsored by Bernina and the American Quilting Society.

Weeks co-founded “Modern Quilt Studio” with her husband, Bill Kerr, in 1999.  But “Solids Revolution” isn’t just for modern quilters, or even just for inexperienced quilters. I’ve been quilting for 40 years, and I learned so much from this video. Do you know how to line up blocks across sashing? Weeks has a great method for ensuring even triangle blocks line up from row to row!

The iquilt video display includes a pop-up “notes” link, so you can take notes right on your computer screen. And questions are answered by the instructor via email – so if you have to ask a “stupid question,” no one sees it save you and your instructor! [I guess my question wasn't really "stupid" -- I asked about sewing a quarter-inch seam with the walking foot. Weeks answered quickly, the Bernina walking foot has a quarter-inch mark.]

“Solids Revolution” includes detailed instructions to make the “Fun House” quilt. The downloadable instructions feature cutting charts for each section of the quilt, a supply list, and optional color choices for your personal quilt. My favorite is the blank “Fun House Coloring Page,” so students can try out various color combinations on paper before committing to fabric. The instruction sheets are especially nice, as quilters won’t need to write down measurements while watching the video. 

The final lesson includes a graphic visual on what happens when your quarter-inch seam isn’t exactly one-quarter inch. Weeks winds up the course with ideas for choosing quilting thread and quilting your quilt. I never realized that quilting thread appears darker in the “valleys” of seams on the quilt!

Weeks’ friendly, personal style of speaking makes the viewer feel that Weeks is right there, talking to you! I’m so excited to choose fabrics for my own “Fun House” quilt. 

I'm thinking it would be fun to make each column in "Fun House" a different color study. Column one, complementary colors. Column two, split complementary. Column three, analogous. Column four, monochromatic. Column five, rainbow -- ROY G BIV!

I'm particularly impressed with the videography on the iquilt.com platform. Transitions from full-screen view to close-up were smooth. Weeks doesn't fidget, chew her lip, or giggle when she misspeaks. All that I expect when paying for a video tutorial!

Take a look at iquilt.com to see all the videos available.


From the desk of your

Tuesday Tutorial: A Tragic Tale

This may well be the saddest quilting story ever told. 

Can you see what this is? Maybe a closeup would help:

This is a beautifully pieced jelly roll quilt, which was washed before it was quilted and bound.

Now before you laugh, and say "Why would anyone wash an un-quilted quilt top?" listen to the reasoning behind this trauma.

You bring home new clothes from the store, and wash them before you wear them, right? So shouldn't you wash your quilt top before it is quilted?

Oh, the humanity.

But you know what? When I read the class instructions for my Jelly Roll Party at Ruth's Stitchery, it included the instructions to bring "wash and pressed fabric."

Noooooo!

Some quilters prewash, some don't (I don't!). But precuts should not be pre-washed -- especially strips! Because the manufacturer is cutting many, many layers of fabric in one swipe, precuts are rarely "on grain." So they tend to fray -- sometimes, a lot!

So please, don't prewash your precuts!

Here are two of my favorite strip pointers. 

First, have you ever opened a roll of 2½" strips and immediately been covered in tiny bits of fabric lint? Try this: before removing the rubber band or ribbon that holds the strips in place, roll the cut sides with a lint roller.

You'll be surprised at how much "lint" comes off on the roller! If you can't find your lint roller (hint: it's on the shelf above the clothes dryer), try using the nozzle of your vacuum cleaner.

Second, have you ever carefully pieced a block using 2½" strips and had it come out too small? It could be your seam allowance -- or it could be that the strip isn't a true 2½" wide. Especially with strips that have "pinked" edges, measure them before you sew!

Sometimes the 2½" width is at the "outside" of the pinked edge, sometimes it's at the "inside" of the pinking.

And sometimes, the strip isn't a complete 2½" wide at all!

Sometimes, the strips are 2½" wide at one end, but narrower at the opposite end. Measure before you sew!

Today is "Do a Grouch a Favor" Day.

Do a Grouch a Favor today. Do it and make the world a better place.
Everyone has been a grouch at one time or another. Some people are seemingly grouches all of the time. It's in their nature. Others are occasional grouches, influenced by events in their lives, lack of sleep, the weather, etc. A few people are good at disguising their grouchy mood. But, they still need cheering up.
 Look around for someone who is in a grouchy mood today. Then, do him or her a favor that will cheer up their day. There's plenty of grouches out there to practice on. Try it on all of the grouches that you see today, and watch the results!

Happy Do a Grouch a Favor Day!

From the desk of your

Tuesday Tutorial: Setting Triangles

For some reason, I've recently been enamoured with triangle-set quilts!

(You're not imagining things. Not all the rows are finished!)

The challenge with this setting is -- how big do I cut the setting triangles?  For example, my Summer "A Quilt Block a Day" quilt is made up of blocks that are 6½" raw-edge-to-raw-edge. The pattern I based my quilt on calls for 10½" squares cut in half diagonally for the setting triangles.

The only problem with this method is, the outside (long) edge of the triangles will be on the bias. 

Having a bias edge on the outside edges of the quilt can result in a wavy quilt. It is possible to reduce this problem by sewing a row of stay-stitching right next to the outside edge.

Or you can use a setting-triangle tool and cut the setting triangles with the straight-of-grain on the long side (hypotenuse)  of the triangle. Here's how I cut the setting triangles for my "Birds in Flight" quilt.

1. Cut a strip of fabric one-half MINUS one-eighth inch the size of square called for in the pattern. My pattern required a square cut at 10½" so I cut my strip 5⅛" wide.

2. I have several setting triangle rulers. The Nifty Notions ruler is similar to the EZ Angle Companion Angle ruler. But neither has a  ⅛" marking.

3. I love Marti Michell's templates and rulers. The Diagonal Set Triangle ruler #8968 can be used for both corner triangles and setting triangles. To make a side-set triangle, place the ruler on the fabric strip with the 5⅛" mark at the bottom of the cut edge. Cut along the right side only:

4. Flip the ruler to the left side (the writing will now be reversed!). Carefully line up the notch at the top of the ruler with the cut you just made:

(see how I have the top notch aligned with the previous cut?)

5. And make the cut along the left side. 

6. To attach the setting triangle, line up the 90 degree angle with the right-hand corner of the block.

7. Stitch and press -- because I'll be sewing rows together, I pressed all the seams on the odd-numbered rows to the left, and all those on the even-numbered rows to the right.

8. Notice that the triangles are about ½" bigger than the blocks. This makes it possible to trim the setting triangles to exactly ¼" beyond the intersection of the rows. Or I can leave them "floating!"

Come back Friday for the last UFO Parade of 2015!


From the desk of your

Winter is Here! A Quilt Block a Day Tutorial

Happy First Day of Winter! I promised an easy peasy block for the winter season, and what could be easier than a 9-patch block?

I'm making my 9-patches from scrappy off-whites and reds. Festive, huh?

You may think it's silly to write a tutorial for a 9-patch, but not everyone has made 9-patches. Here are some tips for making a perfect 9-patch.

Start with either 2½ squares or 2½ strips. I used strips for the center three squares and scrappy squares for the outside rows.

This is a great chance to check your ¼" seam. Three 2½" strips sewn together should measure exactly 6½" -- if it doesn't, adjust your seam now before you sew more strips together!

To press, first "set" the seam by pressing with the dark fabric on top.

Next, press the seams toward the dark (red). Be sure to press to the thread -- in other words, make sure there is no little fold over the seam. 

Repeat for the second seam:

After pressing, I place a wooden cutting board over the strip set and wait for the fabric to cool. This ensure the strata is perfectly flat.

If you sewed strips, cross-cut into 2½" pieces. A fast way to cut is to start by making a clean cut at the left edge,using an 8½" ruler. Then cut a 7½" piece. 

Next, move your ruler to the left and line up at the 5" mark. Make the second cut:

Move the ruler to the left again and line up at the 2½" mark. Make the third cut:

Repeat until the entire strata is cut.

Because you pressed toward the dark side, the seams will nest nicely together. I don't even use pins!

I chain piece 2½" squares together rather than sewing off onto a scrap of fabric. By the end of a day of sewing, I have several blocks complete!

Try always to sew with the top seam aiming away from you. That way, your strata will always be lined up.

Add two strata with the dark (red) at the outsides to either side of the center strata. Press these two seams to the center.

See that the vertical seams are pressed outward, and the horizontal seams are pressed inward.

 Again, place the wooden cutting board on the block to flatten it.

Repeat daily to make 90 total 9-patch blocks!



From the desk of your

Tuesday Tutorial: The Scrap Bin

With the rising cost of quilt fabric, I'm reluctant to toss even small bits of scraps. Which means my scrap storage method is quickly becoming inadequate!

There has been an explosion of "1 Hour Basket" finishes on blogs, Facebook, and Instagram. While I love Kelby's design, it isn't quite the right size to fit my new "scrap shelf." So I made some measurements, and came up with a fabric basket that finishes at a 10" cube.

Here's how I made mine!

What you'll need:

I used Soft and Stable for my first sample. It's kind of spendy, so I changed to fusible fleece for subsequent bins. The Soft and Stable bin stands upright when empty better than the fusible fleece bin. But when they're filled with fabric (and they are!) either works fine.

• (5) 10" squares of Soft and Stable, or fusible fleece

• (10) 10" squares of fabric -- perfect for leftover layer cake squares

You may choose to use decorator weight fabric or even canvas. If so, I would line the bin with quilting-weight cotton.

 And here's how to make it!

1. If using fusible fleece, follow the package directions to fuse the fleece to the wrong side of five of the ten squares. If using Soft and Stable, either glue base or sew baste at 1/8"  to wrong side of the squares.

2. Place two squares right sides together. Sew along one side, beginning and ending the stitching at 1/4" from the end.

Start with the lining. This way, you'll get practice stitching on the part that doesn't show in the finished bin!

I always use a red pin as a "flag" when I want to begin and end at a specific point in the stitching. 

3. Important!  On one side of the bottom square, leave an opening about 6-8" to turn the finished bag.

If you forget to leave an opening, you can pick out the seam later!

4. Continue adding squares to each side of the bottom square until it looks like this:

5. To sew the side seams, fold the bottom square to form a 45-degree angle. This keeps it from getting caught in the side seam. Line up the sides and pin in place.

6. Begin stitching at the bottom seam, back tack, and continue stitching to the top of the side pieces. Back tack again.

The back-tacking keeps the seam from coming apart when you turn the bin right-side out.

I used a red pin to show exactly where to begin stitching. It's not at the edges of the fabric -- this is like stitching a "Y" seam in a quilt block, you start sewing 1/4" from the edge of the pieces.

 7. After the lining pieces are sewn together, sew the outside box the same way.

8. Here is my finished "box."

9. Turn the lining right-side out and place inside the outside.  Pin all around the top:

I turned the seams in opposite directions so they would "nestle" when stitched.

10. and stitch all the way round:

11. Remember that opening you left on one bottom seam of the lining?

 If you press the seam allowance open, it will be easier to line up to stitch the opening closed.

Stitch the opening closed as close to the folded edges as you can. 

This will be covered with scraps of fabric, so don't panic if it isn't perfect! 

12. Press the top edge, using plenty of steam to encourage the edges to press flush. Then fold the top inch or two wrong sides together and stitch through all layers for about 1.5-2".

This helps the box hold its shape when upright. 

13. Top stitch about 1/2" from the top, all the way around.

14. Et voila! Your finished scrap bin, ready to fill with scraps, or squares, or strips!

It took me less than one hour to make the second and third bins. As you can see, I need six more!

I thought about making the bins match the color of scraps. But then, I would have had to buy (gasp!) fabric to make bins to hold scrap fabric. That just seemed silly!

See that basket with the yellow paper bow on top of the shelf? It was a "welcome baby" gift from my boss at Pacific Lutheran University when the younger son was born. Now it holds ironing supplies, but I think of Dean Moe every time I see it!

I hope you'll experiment with making your own scrap bins. Like the 1 Hour Basket, they're addictive!


From the desk of your